By Judy Bass
When most people head to Fenway Park, they’re fired up about who’s pitching for the Red Sox, who the opposing team is, and whether the home squad will notch a victory. When Ron Abell goes to the ballpark, though, the one thing on his mind is food.
Abell, who is from Braintree and graduated from Blue Hills Regional Technical School in 1984, isn’t a ravenously hungry fan. He’s actually starting his second year as senior executive chef at Fenway, where he is responsible for supervising 100 employees and feeding several thousand people on a typical game day.
What makes the position additionally challenging, explains Abell, 42, is the fact that he must provide attractive dining options for a variety of venues and discerning palates at Fenway. For example, there is the EMC Club, a 400-member private club where Abell emphasizes seasonal New American cuisine that highlights regional cookery. In the rear of the kitchen servicing the EMC Club, he said, there is another kitchen devoted to preparing food for the park’s 55 luxury suites including those of VIPs such as General Manager Theo Epstein, Sox President and CEO Larry Lucchino, and other team bigwigs.
The Pavilion-level buffet, an area expanded this year, gives 1,500 fans access to a restaurant, and they can also order from their seats. The Absolute Lounge on Brookline Avenue is a private dining area for dugout-seat holders, and then there’s the Players Club, where Abell has barbeques for throngs of 200.
On top of all those responsibilities, Abell’s staff also cooks for members of the media, Fenway employees, and the Sox’ wives and families.
If anything helps Abell fulfill his mission to offer exceptional meals to all who come to Fenway, it’s his eclectic and impressive resume. After graduating from Blue Hills, where he studied Culinary Arts, Abell attended prestigious Johnson and Wales University in Providence, R.I., then used his cooking skills at high-profile eateries such as Bella’s at Braintree Five Corners, Vin & Eddie’s Ristorante and Bar in Abington, and in Boston, Maison Robert, Icarus, and Biba on Boylston Street, where his employer was the legendary Lydia Shire.
Abell got even more rarefied experience when he was private chef aboard a 100-foot motor yacht that belonged to the founder and president of Saga Food Corp., the largest institutional food service in the country. This vessel would cruise the West Indies during the New England winter, Abell, recalls, and the Eastern seaboard in the summertime.
Now, though, he’s headquartered in the Hub turning out succulent burgers with all-natural bacon and hand-cut fries, and creating flavorful dishes with premium ingredients like asparagus, rhubarb and ramps.
Abell landed the job when he heard “through the grapevine” that the Sox top brass wanted to up the quality of the food at Fenway. The owners were improving everything across the board, says Abell, and they wanted to ensure that terrific cuisine was available, which meant healthy, local choices and “something for everybody.”
Helping Abell provide that is his team of sous chefs and hourly employees. “You have to establish the best team you can to put yourself in a winning position,” he said. “We’re constantly challenging ourselves to be better. We’re never happy unless everything is perfect.”
You might assume that being in a professional kitchen was Abell’s lifelong goal, but that’s not quite the case. His family was in the ski business, however, Abell and his sister wanted a different career path. He felt it might be interesting to attend a technical school like Blue Hills to learn professional skills along with the academic basics. Culinary Arts was not his first choice, but Abell says the teachers were great and he loved it.
There was another important plus. Abell developed such solid knowledge of cooking techniques while he was still in high school that when he began college at Johnson and Wales, he was far ahead of his peers, who Abell says were “green as can be.” His knife skills were so good that they allowed him to broaden the rest of his culinary abilities at a quicker pace, he remembers, and he was already familiar with how to prepare sauces and stocks and braise and bake. That strong foundation he got at Blue Hills “helped me to excel,” Abell confirms.
Despite his obvious success, he admits that the life he leads isn’t for everyone. He’s on the job by 7 or 8 in the morning and may not leave until 10 at night. In between, the pace is hectic, Abell’s on his feet most of the time, and there is the constant challenge of meeting lofty standards of service and quality.
The capable team around him is a big plus. Abell says he hires people with a “passion and love” for food, a virtue he clearly has as well.